As far as I can tell, patient zero was a Swedish 24-year-old named Elsa Thora. 'Why did no one tell me ranch sauce is like crack'' she posted to X earlier this month, apparently hours after landing in Indianapolis for a monthlong World Cup trip. 'EUROPE WE NEED RANCH ASAP.' The post received 49,000 likes and propelled Thora to a very specific kind of fame. ('I guess I'm that Ranch girl now,' says her bio on Instagram, where she is also doing sponsored content for a Curacao-based online casino that takes only cryptocurrency. She was also, as my colleague Will Oremus recently pointed out, a star of both OnlyFans and the British tabloids before any of this.) Soon enough, ever more World Cup visitors were being charmed by ranch, and more Americans were being charmed by them being charmed. By late last week, the TSA had issued a statement: 'If you're visiting for a very large sporting event & you happen to discover RANCH while you're here' pls pack it in your CHECKED BAG on the way home'...
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